Walking the Camino, The Chemin de St. Jacques and/or the Stevenson Trail from Le Puy

We have just returned from a few days in Le Puy en Velay, the start of the French section of the Camino, the Way of St James to Santiago de Compostella and the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail. We did not intend to walk any long distances. We had visited the city two years ago when we walked the Stevenson Trail to St Jean du Gard. On that occasion we arrived late in the afternoon, left early the next morning and so saw little of the city. This was a mistake. On this trip we learned several hints that could be of interest to the walker intending to travel one of these routes.

• The tourist office issues a free town plan.  This shows the walking routes out of the centre. We noticed at least two groups of walkers trying to find their way out of the centre. In our experience this is always the most difficult stage of a walking trip. Even though the route is waymarked with the red and white stripes the French use, these are easy to to miss. 
• It is worthwhile spending a few hours in Le Puy. A visit gives you an excellent feel for a mediaeval city. The cathedral and the museums are well worth visiting. The view from the cast iron statue of the Virgin Mary on a volcanic neck repaid the effort we had to invest in getting up there.
• While you are there, you might want lunch. The staff canteen in the Hotel du Départmente, next to the cathedral offers excellent food to visitors very cheaply. We ate poached salmon, ratatouille and macaroni and a farmhouse yoghurt for 7€ each. We could have had a full meal: starter, main course, pudding and cheese, with coffee for 10€. The canteen is run by an organisation offering employment to people with learning difficulties, so you can be well fed and have a warm feeling that you have helped someone. Just the right attitude to start the pilgrimage. 

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  One of the many historic buildings in the centre of the city

  If you don't want to carry all your stuff or you need to leave or join a party underway La Malle Postale (www.lamallepostale.com) offers baggage and people transfer along the major walking routes in the area. Some of the information on services offered is in  understandable but slightly odd English, but all of it is available in French. This is an extremely valuable service in an area where public transport leaves much to be desired.
  

  

  The statue of the Virgin towering over the city centre

  
  

  

  The doorways are fascinating